Fairway woods buyers’ guide

The decision of which fairway wood to go with has grown somewhat more difficult in recent years due to the growing popularity of hybrid woods, which are sometimes referred to as utility or Rescue woods (for more information on how to select hybrids, go here). This is most likely due to the fact that the distinction between a fairway wood and a hybrid wood is frequently rather uncertain.

There are an infinite number of variations of lofts, different head materials, and now even varied forms. Callaway and Nike have both released square versions of their golf balls, which are now available for purchase. In light of this, the first question that you should probably ask yourself is, “What do you want the fairway wood for?” Some of the most common responses to this question are likely to be: 

 

  1.  To hit off the tee
  2.  To replace long irons from the fairway
  3.  To reach par 5’s in two

After determining the purpose for which you will use your fairway wood, the next step is to choose which fairway will serve your needs the most effectively.

To hit off the tee

As a result of their greater loft, fairway woods are easier to hit than driver woods. Although they do not travel as far, a three-wood can still travel well over 220 yards if it is played with the appropriate technique. A two-, three-, or four-wood is likely to be the best option for you if you are seeking for an alternative to a driver that requires less effort to hit.

To replace long irons from the fairway

In the eyes of many golfers, hitting a high-lofted wood into a green is preferable to hitting a 2, 3, or 4 iron. Should this be the case, then you should be looking for five woods or above. It is much simpler to obtain greater distance without overswinging while using a fairway wood as opposed to an iron since the clubhead of a fairway wood is larger. In general, a 5 wood would be equivalent to a 2 iron, a 7 wood would be equivalent to a 3 or 4 iron, and a 9 wood would be equivalent to a 5 iron.

To reach par 5s in two

There are some holes that are simply too long to reach with a drive and a long iron, and if you want to aim for glory, you will need to find a way to get to them. When it comes to getting there in two, the only thing that will get you there is a drive and a fairway wood. To accomplish this, you are most likely searching for a three or four wood. Additionally, if you anticipate using the third or fourth wood from the fairway the majority of the time, you should opt for a club with a head that is quite shallow. Despite the fact that you will still be able to use it from the tee, a head with a lower profile will be more effective when hitting from tighter lies. 

 

So Which Fairway Wood?

Most manufacturers denote the fairway wood number on the sole of the club (3,4,5 etc) as well as the loft (as in this TaylorMade Burner. Some however – notably Titleist – only denote the loft – as per this image of their popular 15 degree (i.e. 3 wood).

Here’s an approximation of how loft equates to the number:

Degrees of Loft

Description and Notes

13-14

A ‘Strong’ 3. Slightly lower loft than a normal 3 – slightly lower trajectory.

15-16

Classic fairway 3 wood.

16-17

Strong 4 – A slightly easier, shorter 3 wood.

17-18

4 wood. Safer than a 3 wood, longer than a 5.

18-19

Strong 5.

19-21

Easy hitting long wood. Along with the driver, often carried with a 3 wood.

23-24

Strong 7. Shaft should be a little longer than a regular seven. A good complement to 4 woods.

28-29

9 woods and beyond. High-lofted woods like these can be used instead of mid irons – some find them easier to hit. Also good out of rough because the edges are smoother than an iron head so swipe through long grass more easily.

29-32

11 Woods. See above. Lofts vary considerably between manufacturers. These very high loft fairway woods are especially popular with lady golfers and seniors who don’t generate quite as much clubhead speed.

Fairway Wood Shafts

In contrast to drivers, the majority of manufacturers allow customers to select steel shafts as an option for at least portion of their fairway wood product lines. On the other hand, graphite shafts are the standard for fairway woods in the modern era. If there is any preference for steel shafts in fairway woods, it is typically reserved for players with more experience. If you want a lower and more penetrating ball flight, steel shafts might be able to help you achieve that (on the assumption that you want it; the majority of players are really seeking for more height from their fairway woods).

The more raw, substantial, and immediate feel and sound that steel shafts provide is something that some of the best players love. They also claim that steel shafts offer a little bit more accuracy than other types of wooden shafts. In the event that it does, it will be at the modest sacrifice of distance. It is important to keep in mind that fairway woods are not really about accuracy; rather, they are more about hitting the ball for a substantial distance. Stick with graphite if you are unclear of what to do. You will be in a more secure position, and you will also have a better selection of options.

Fairway Wood Head Design

As is the case with drivers, some manufacturers are beginning to provide a selection of ‘Offset,’ ‘Draw,’ or ‘Neutral’ options on fairway woods in addition to the basic models. A look at the reasons why…

This occurs when the clubface is more “open” (pointing to the right in simple words) than it should be when the ball is struck. This is typically the result of the player’s hands being “behind the ball” at the time of impact, rather than “ahead,” as they would be if they had a proper swing. The ball receives a side-spin as a result of this, and it then goes right into the woods.

The manufacturers make an effort to compensate for this by incorporating weight (something heavy, typically tungsten) into the clubhead and positioning it in such a way that it assists in maintaining the clubhead’s squareness when it is struck.

The opposite of a slice and significantly more desirable, a draw is a little right-left swing on the ball. As a result, woods that are enhanced with a draw are more desirable. One nice example would be the R7 Draw Fairway Wood from TaylorMade, which is shown in the picture.

One further remedy for slicers is to use clubs in which the head is already positioned slightly “offset” behind the shaft. This has the same effect as the previous approach, which is to maintain the clubhead’s square impact. The photo on the left, which depicts the Cobra’s Speed LD Offset, is an example. When it comes to golf, these clubs are particularly popular among players who have slower swing speeds, such as elderly golfers and female golfers.

However, just to be clear, the vast majority of fairway woods that are manufactured and purchased are conventional variants. Therefore, you should not get too caught up in the alternatives that are available. In the event that you are uncertain, you should begin by attempting to use a conventional model.

In any case, there is a contention that, unless you have a swing speed that is slower than normal, but you are still routinely slicing the ball, you could be better off going to your local pro in order to cure the swing fault rather than simply “patching” the problem with an offset head. This is because you are more likely to be able to improve your swing fault. On the other hand, if you are pressed for time and are unable to get out and play or practise as much as you would want, a quick-fix can be exactly what you need to overcome the situation.

Fairway Wood Head Materials

When it comes to fairway woods, there are three different types of head material that you can choose from, and wood is not one of them!

Steel

One of the most widely used materials for fairway wood heads is this particular substance. Almost all of the fairway woods that are currently on the market have heads that are made of steel, and it is not overly pricey.

Titanium

Titanium weighs half as much as steel, making it an excellent material for the production of large-headed drivers. In addition, it is being utilised in the production of titanium fairway woods; however, these fairway woods are often larger in size and are intended to be employed primarily for hitting shots off the tee. Its low weight enables manufacturers to move the centre of gravity to a more distant location in the head (often by the use of a heavy weight plug, which is typically made of tungsten), which assists in getting the ball airborne at an earlier stage. Additionally, thin titanium faces allow for the greatest possible distance.

Among the most recent examples is the r7 CGB Max Fairway Wood from TaylorMade Manufacturing. To your surprise, however, titanium fairway woods are more expensive than steel-headed fairway woods.

Composite

The creation of ultra-lightweight fairway woods occurs through the utilisation of multi-material composite clubs, which combine contemporary elements such as carbon with steel or titanium. Because of the head’s modest weight, the producers are able to insert weights around the inside circumference of the head, which allows them to limit the amount of twisting that occurs when the head is hit off-center. It should be noted that these are premium products that come with a price tag. For instance, the new FT-I Squareway Woods from Callaway and the Rapture series from Ping are both examples.

As a conclusion

We hope that this concise guide has been helpful in enlightening you about some of the considerations that go into determining which fairway is the most suitable for you. Prior to make a final choice, you might also find it helpful to learn more about hybrid clubs by reading our buying guide.

There is no replacement for trying out a few different options and determining which one works best for you. A no-risk trial period is included with each and every one of Golfbidder’s clubs. Give one that appears to be a good fit a shot; if it does not prove to be an improvement over the fairway wood you are currently using, you can easily return it and receive a full refund, or you can try something else. 



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